Dentelle Cowl

Hello friends!

Here is my March pattern, for my Pattern a Month Challenge. This cowl is comfortable and easy to wear, takes no time at all to make, so it's perfect for a last minute gift & only uses a small amount of yarn, so it's a great stash buster :-)

Don't know how to crochet (you really should try and learn, it's awesome!) or don't have the time? You can find the finished piece for sale in my online store HERE

Dentelle Cowl

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

Materials: 4.5mm hook

130-160m (140-175yd) 8 ply or DK weight yarn.

Scissors.

Tapestry needles.

Tension/Gauge: Accurate tension or gauge is not essential for this project however the cowl shown in the pictures has 13 "Shells" or pattern repeats and is 56cm (22") in circumference and 16.5cm (6 1/2") tall. Which works out as each pattern repeat (1 shell, plus 2tr) being approx 4.5cm (1 3/4") wide.

ABBREVIATIONS: This pattern is written using British/Australian crochet terms, with U.S. terms listed below in parenthesis.

ch = chain

tr = treble (U.S. dc = Double Crochet)

sp = space

sl st = slip stitch

PATTERN

This cowl is worked in 2 halves, from the foundation chain. See pictures below :-)

Ch 91. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, taking care not to twist your stitches.

Round 1: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr here and throughout pattern), 1tr in next ch, miss next 2 ch. (3 tr. Ch 1. 3 tr) in next ch (Shell made), miss next 2 ch, *1 tr in each of next 2 ch, miss next 2 ch, Shell in the next ch, miss next 2 ch. Repeat from * to end, join with a sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr). 1 tr in next tr, Shell in next ch-1 sp, *1 tr in each of next 2 tr, Shell in next 1 ch sp. Rep from * to end, join with a sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Repeat Round 2 until you have a total of 6 Rounds.

Now you will be working into the other side of your foundation chain. See pictures below.

Start the 2nd half of your cowl in the ch that is at the base of your very first 3ch at the beginning of Round 1. See picture above. (This just keeps the beginning of your Rounds in the same place as the first half of your cowl :-)

Complete Round 1, followed by Round 2, until you have a total of 6 Rounds on this half of the cowl. (A total of 12 Rounds for your entire cowl :-) Fasten off. Weave in ends. Blocking your work will help bring out the lace detail of your cowl. Blocking generally only works with natural fibres :-)

Yu can make your cowl taller by simply adding more rounds, and you can make your cowl longer (it makes an excellent infinity scarf :-) by beginning with more chain stitches, the pattern works on multiples of 7 :-)

You can find this pattern on Ravelry HERE

Copyright is held by the author (SharaLambethDesigns). Copyright remains that of the author at all times. The pattern is for personal use only. Reproduction of this pattern in anyway (electronic, email, photocopying, transcribing etc) is strictly prohibited, except with the explicit permission of the author. Please do not sell the pattern or the finished product that is made using this pattern without permission of the author, as this is a direct infringement of the copyright laws protecting this pattern. Also please be aware that copyright laws vary from country to country (sometimes even from state to state), I am Australian, in Australia, therefore my patterns are protected by Australian copyright laws. This copyright protection still stands no matter what country the item is made in or who makes it. Thank you!!

If you do want to sell the cowls you make using this pattern at a market, craft fair or in your online store please do ask, as in most cases I will give permission :-)

And please feel free to make as many cowls as you can, to donate to your local charities.

Autumn Möbius Cowl

Hello friends!

This is my February pattern in the "Pattern a Month" challenge I have set myself. I know, I know, I'm cutting it fine this month, the only reason I made it in time this month is because it's a leap year and I got an extra day :-)

This pattern for a simple cowl is great for beginners (and more experienced crocheters :-), it works up quickly, with a small amount of yarn, so it's a good stash buster :-) It also makes a great last minute gift.

I've included instructions at the end of the pattern on how you can easily modify the size of the cowl to make it as long or as short as you like.

You can find this pattern on Ravelry HERE

Have fun!

Autumn Möbius Cowl

This pattern is written using British/Australian crochet terms, with U.S. terms in parenthesis.

Abbreviations:

ch : chain

sl st: slip stitch

tr: treble (U.S. dc: double crochet)

Materials:

4.5mm crochet hook.

Approx. 105m (115yds) DK or 8 ply yarn

Scissors

Yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Tension/Gauge:

14 sts & 10 rows in tr = 10cm x 10cm

Although tension is not essential in this project if you have less stitches across 10cm, your cowl will be larger and require more yarn and if you have less stitches across 10cm, your cowl will be smaller and may require less yarn :-)

Finished size: 66cm around, and 13.5cm high.

Pattern:

Ch 92, join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist your chain.

Round 1: 3ch [to count as 1tr (1dc), here and through out pattern], 1tr in each ch to end, DO NOT join with a sl st as you normally would when working in the round. Now you will flip the beginning of your work forwards and down, as shown in the picture below:

Now you will be working into the other side of the foundation chain, as shown in the picture below. Work 1 tr into each st to the end, join with a sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Round 2: 3ch, 1tr into each st to end, join with sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

You will notice here that each Round is essentially 2 whole Rounds (this might not make much sense unless you're looking at your work :-)

Rounds 3-5: As Round 2.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Finished!

You can easily make this cowl larger or small by using more or less chain at the beginning, and by completing more or less rounds. You could make a smaller one for a child, a cowl like this is great for kids as it doesn't have any long bits hanging down, like a scarf, getting your way while you're playing :-) Or you could make yourself a longer one, more like an infinity scarf rather than a cowl. Below are instructions on how to adjust the length of your cowl, and how to work out how many stitches you'll need to make a cowl if you want to use a different weight yarn & different size hook :-)

To work out how many chain stitches you will need to start with to get a particular length cowl/scarf you can use the following method:

Make a tension/gauge square with yarn and hook you are using, count how many stitches fit into 10cm. Then divide the desired finished length of the cowl/scarf by 10, then multiply that number by the number of stitches that fit into 10cm, according to the tension/gauge you have. This will give you the number of chain stitches you need to start with. Sound confusing? Here's an example:

The finished length of the cowl in the pictures is 66cm, the tension/gauge using this yarn and hook is 14 sts in 10cm. 66 divided by 10 = 6.6. Then, 6.6 multiplied by 14 = 92.4, so I started with 92 stitches. I hope that helps!!

If you have any questions, queries, need assistance to complete your cowl or find an error, please don't hesitate to leave a comment and I'll gladly help where I can :-)

Copyright is held by the author (SharaLambethDesigns). Copyright remains that of the author at all times. The pattern is for personal use only. Reproduction of this pattern in anyway (electronic, email, photocopying, transcribing etc) is strictly prohibited, except with the explicit permission of the author. Please do not sell the pattern or the finished product that is made using this pattern without permission of the author, as this is a direct infringement of the copyright laws protecting this pattern. Also please be aware that copyright laws vary from country to country (sometimes even from state to state), I am Australian, in Australia, therefore my patterns are protected by Australian copyright laws. This copyright protection still stands no matter what country the item is made in or who makes it. Thank you!!

If you do want to sell the cowls you make using this pattern at a market, craft fair or in your online store please do ask, as in most cases I will give permission :-)

And please feel free to make as many cowls as you can, to donate to your local charities.

Folk Squirrel Brooches

Hello friends!

I have been adding some new pieces to my store :-) I'm pleased to introduce the Folk Squirrel series :-)

You can find these Folk Squirrels in my online store HERE :-)

The white Squirrels are laser cut from recycled pine MDF wood, with a white melamine veneer. The natural wood Squirrel is laser cut from sustainable Rimu wood :-)

Jo Sharp Wool

Hello friends!

Today I'm lucky enough to be working with this gorgeous Jo Sharp 100% wool yarn to make some samples for a workshop that is coming up at my LYS (Local Yarn Store).

Aren't the colours just divine :-)

I'm making 2 pairs of fingerless gloves from two balls of yarn. I'll show you the pictures of the finished gloves soon :-)

Hand Dyeing Yarn

Hello friends,

Recently I have been experimenting with hand dyeing yarn. It's lots of fun, you should try it too! :-)

I have been using food dye, yep that's right, just regular old food dye.

I had tried yarn dyeing with food dye several years ago, with varying results, from kind of nice to hideous. Then I found this tutorial on Youtube and it was a much better method than I had previously been using.

I had been seeing lots of gradient dyed yarn around and wondered how folks were doing it... then suddenly it came to me! So this is what I came up with. (I'll add my tutorial of how I did the gradient dyeing soon :-)

So, it's a self striping yarn, in graduating rainbow colours :-) I have no idea what I'm going to knit or crochet with it yet, but I'm sure I'll be able to find something :-)

The yarn is a wool/angora/bamboo/nylon mix that I had hanging around in my stash. I was surprised how well the yarn picked up the dye, because of the bamboo & nylon content. The yarn is mainly wool & angora though, and through all of my dyeing experiments I know that animal fibres pick up the food dyes really well & plant fibres and synthetic fibres do not pick up the food dyes at all (well maybe a teensy bit, but nothing worth the effort :-)

Below is an image of what the yarn looked like before I wound it into a ball with my nostepinne. I know, I know, it looks all scary and knotty... but it wasn't (phew!) However, after hand winding approx 1km of yarn after my dyeing experiments I ordered an umbrella swift and yarn winder online (yippee!)

Also, I just wanted to add that a few people have been concerned that the food dyes are not colour fast and will just wash out, or bleed unpleasantly, but the vinegar and heat help to fix the dyes. I have also tested the food dyed yarns for colour fastness and they have all held up really well, even after washing in the machine and/or soaking :-)

Just in case you were wondering, for the colours in this particular yarn I used Queens food dye that I got in the baking section of the supermarket, except for the violet colour, which is a gel food colour from Spotlight, but it's also available at specialty cake decorating shops :-) Also, here's a tip, you can't use the "natural" food dyes from Queens... the colours are made using plant extracts, and while they are excellent to use when you're actually dyeing food, they don't work for dyeing yarn :-)

Ridged Beanie Pattern

Ridged Beanie Pattern

I have had many requests for this pattern, so I thought I better write it up and add it to my collection here on the blog. This is the first of my patterns in the "Pattern a Month" challenge I have set myself for 2012.

At first the pattern may seem a little complicated, however with a little patience and persistence you will soon have the hang of all the stitches and will be able to whip one of these beanies up in an evening :-)

At times the pattern may also seem a little bit "wordy", this is done for people who are new to following patterns, so that everything is explained thoroughly :-)

They're great for last minute gifts and perfect for making for charity :-)

Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner to Intermediate. Knowledge of front post treble (front post double crochet), front post double treble (front post treble), front post half treble ( front post half double crochet) & back post half treble ( back post half double crochet) is required to complete this pattern (there are a lot of really great tutorials on the internet that will help you learn how to do these stitches if you're not already familiar with them :-)

Sizes: Child 48cm (Woman 56-58cm, Man 60-63cm)

Materials: 4.5mm hook

Dk or 8 ply yarn, 120m (140m, 160m) of yarn required. This amount is approximate.

Sewing Needle

Scissors

Gauge: 16tr (dc) per 10cm (4"). If you have more stitches you should use a larger hook, if you have less stitches you should use a smaller hook :-)

Abbreviations (British/Australian crochet terms used throughout, with U.S. terms in parenthesis in chart below):

ch = chain

st or sts = stitch or stitches

sl st = slip stitch

dc (sc) = double crochet (single crochet)

tr (dc) = treble (double crochet)

fphtr (fphdc) = front post half treble (front post half double crochet)

fpdtr (fptr) = front post double treble (front post treble)

bphtr = back post half treble (back post half double crochet)

sfpdtr (sfptr) = special front post double treble (special front post treble)

Special stitches:

Special Front Post Double Treble (sfpdtr) or if using U.S. crochet terms: Special Front Post Treble (sfptr):

yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull loop through (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert hook around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round, yo, draw loop through (5 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, draw loop through last 3 sts on hook. Sfpdtr (sfptr) is complete.

Pattern:

All Sizes:

ch 4, join with sl st into first ch to form loop.

Round 1: ch 3 (to count as 1 tr (dc) here & through out pattern), 11 tr (dc) into ring, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (12 sts)

Round 2: ch 3, fpdtr (fptr) around tr (dc) from previous round that is directly below ch 3, *tr (dc) in next st, fpdtr (fptr) around tr from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (24 sts)

Round 3: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in next st, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is directly below st just worked, *1tr (dc) in each of the next 2 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (36 sts)

Round 4: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of next 2 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is directly below st just worked, *1tr (dc) in each of the next 3 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (48 sts)

Round 5: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of next 3 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is directly below st just worked, *1tr (dc) in each of the next 4 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (60 sts)

For Child's size ONLY:

Rounds 6-13: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of the next 3 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr) from previous round, *1 tr in each of the next 4 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr), repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Rounds 14-15: ch 2, fphtr (fphdc) around next 2 sts, bphtr (bphdc) around next st, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) from previous round only, *bphtr (bphdc) around next st, fphtr (fphdc) around next 2 sts, bphtr (bphdc) around next st, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) of previous round only, repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 2nd ch at beginning of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Finished!

For Womens & Mens sizes ONLY:

Round 6: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of next 4 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is directly below st just worked, *1tr (dc) in each of the next 5 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (72 sts)

Womens Size ONLY:

Rounds 7-15: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of the next 4 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr) from previous round, *1 tr in each of the next 5 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr), repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Rounds 16-17: ch 2, [fphtr (fphdc) around next st, bphtr (bphdc) around next st] twice, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) from previous round only, *bphtr (bphdc) around next st, [fphtr (fphdc) around next st, bphtr (bphdc) around next st] twice, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) of previous round only, repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 2nd ch at beginning of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Finished!

For Mens size ONLY:

Round 7: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of next 5 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is directly below st just worked, *1tr (dc) in each of the next 6 sts, fpdtr (fptr) around fpdtr (fptr) from previous round that is below st just worked, repeat from * to end, join with a sl st into 3rd ch at beginning of round. (84 sts)

Rounds 8-16: ch 3, 1tr (dc) in each of the next 5 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr) from previous round, *1 tr in each of the next 6 sts, sfpdtr (sfptr) in next st & fpdtr (fptr), repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 3rd ch at beginning of round.

Rounds 17-18: ch 2, bphtr (bphdc) around next st, fphtr (fphdc) around next 2 sts, bphtr (bphdc) around next 2 sts, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) from previous round only, *bphtr (bphdc) around next 2 sts, fphtr (fphdc) around next 2 sts, bphtr (bphdc) around next 2 sts, fphtr (fphdc) around "front post" of sfpdtr (sfptr) of previous round only, repeat from * to end, join with sl st in 2nd ch at beginning of round.

Fasten off, weave in ends. Finished!

In the pictures above, the orange coloured beanie is a womens size, and the chocolate coloured beanie is a mens size and is being worn as a slouch style hat :-)

If you have any questions, queries, need assistance to complete your beanie or find an error, please don't hesitate to leave a comment and I'll gladly help where I can :-)

Copyright is held by the author (SharaLambethDesigns). Copyright remains that of the author at all times. The pattern is for personal use only. Reproduction of this pattern in anyway (electronic, email, photocopying, transcribing etc) is strictly prohibited, except with the explicit permission of the author. Please do not sell the pattern or the finished product that is made using this pattern without permission of the author, as this is a direct infringement of the copyright laws protecting this pattern.

If you do want to sell the beanies you make using this pattern at a market, craft fair or in your online store please do ask, as in most cases I will give permission :-)

And please feel free to make as many beanies as you can to donate to your local charities.

Hello 2012

Hello friends :-)

I hope your festive season was relaxing and full of pleasant surprises :-)

I'm about to head off for a camping trip with my 8 year old nephew at Wilsons Promontory for a week or so, which I'm really looking forward to. I hope the weather is kind to us!!

I hope to be doing some well earned relaxing while I'm there. Wandering around in the forest, floating around in the ocean, and not a lot else :-)

When I return from my little holiday I'll be adding some new knitting and crochet patterns!! Yes, that's right!

I've been working on a few new designs over the last couple of months, for various fingerless glove designs, gloves with fingers, kids tops, kids shorts, jewellery, toys, scarves, shawls/wraps, cowls, hats & even a ladies cardigan!

I had this crazy idea that I would try and write at least one new pattern every month this year. I'm not sure how I'll go, but I'm going to try my best and hopefully there will be a lot of fun things to make here on my blog :-)

Take care and I'll be back with a bunch of fun, new things in a few weeks :-)